Anthony and Cleopatra fell in love while eating buffalo mozzarella

If you’ve never been nose to nose with a water buffalo, you’ll have to take my word that these magnificent creatures, with their shaggy hair, long eyelashes and sweet round eyes, mean you no harm. “The only way they could hurt you is by loving you to death. When they’re being milked, they love having their faces and necks rubbed and scratched. They close their eyes in complete ecstasy,” says Darrel Archer, who along with his wife Anthea, operates Canada’s first and only water buffalo dairy in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island.

The creamy, dense buffalo milk is sent to the Natural Pastures Cheese Company in Courtenay, where Master Cheese Maker Paul Sutter oversees its transition (including hand-stretching) into porcelain-white mounds of buffalo mozzarella. Natural Pastures has been producing Mozzarella di Bufala Fairburn for less than two years, but it’s already garnered a handful of awards—including third place at the British Empire Cheese Show.

The water buffalo dairy is at Fairburn Farm, which was purchased by Darrel Archer’s parents in 1954 (who, one year later, formed the Vancouver Island Organic Co-operative, the first in Canada). Darrel and Anthea took over the farm in 1978. In its 120-year history it has never used chemical pesticides, herbicides, growth hormones or antibiotics.

The Archers have raised sheep and cattle in the past. It was their search for an animal that would thrive on local vegetation and produce a unique product that led them to import Canada’s first herd of water buffalo from Bulgaria in 2000. These are river buffalo, originally bred in Asia for milk production, and are very different from North American buffalo, which are actually bison.

Chef Mara Jernigan offers farmhouse accommodation at Fairburn, where she also holds cooking classes and hosts special events. Mara attended the Slow Food Master of Italian Cooking program in the Marches region of Italy, a country she has traveled extensively. “I specialize in seasonal, local food. I’m not trying to reproduce Italy here—I just really like their terroir and approach to food.”

Buffalo mozzarella is a popular summer cheese, but, as Darrel Archer says, “it tastes just as good in winter.” Thankfully, Natural Pastures produces it once a week, year round. “It can be served at room temperature in Caprese salad, but it’s also a beautiful melting cheese—just be careful not to overcook it,” says Chef Mara. It’s great in grilled sandwiches, pizza, lasagna, or stacked with grilled vegetables and baked in the oven.

The Archers milk the buffalo every day, which is a full-time job for both of them. “Natural Pastures told us we could never send them too much milk,” says Darrel. To expand their current operation, they’d need more hands on the farm. “If you’re looking to get into a unique operation, you’re more than welcome to join us here,” he says.

Legend has it that Anthony and Cleopatra fell in love while eating buffalo mozzarella, floating down the Nile on a barge pulled by water buffalo. I won’t promise you romance, but I guarantee if you try Natural Pastures Mozzarella di Bufala Fairburn, you’ll fall in love.

Natural Pastures Mozzarella di Bufala Fairburn is found at Les Amis du Fromage, Stong’s Market, Bosa Foods and Urban Fare.
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Joanne Will was born on Salt Spring Island, grew up on a farm in southern Saskatchewan, and currently lives in Vancouver (although she’s seriously considering a move to Fairburn Farm to spend more time with Heather, Naomi, Hayley, and all of the other buffalo gals).

Warm Green Salad with Water Buffalo Mozzarella wrapped in Prosciutto